Wednesday, April 20, 2011

Grinding Meat and Making Sausage



I'm always on the look out for interesting classes, techniques and recipes to further improve my cooking and creative life. So, when the email for Williams-Sonoma's selection of April classes appeared in my inbox, I eagerly double clicked to open the message.  Quickly scanning the array of Sunday classes, my eyes caught sight of the one I had been waiting for since purchasing my Kitchen Aid stand mixer: "Techniques Class: From Scratch - Sausage".

Inspired, I immediately called and reserved a space in the class for my mother and I.  Little did I know how much my relationship with meat crafting would change as a result.


So, on recent beautiful Sunday in April my mother and I made our way into our local Williams-Sonoma culinary store. Stepping up to the demonstration counter, I carved out a way for my mom and I to see clearly. The techniques instructor du jour was humorous, answered all of my questions (yes, I am that person),  gave my mother extra servings of the things she loved and overall reminded me of why I love WS stores. Especially, the outlet store at the California - Nevada state line. But, that's for a different rampage of appreciation.

The recipes she demonstrated were the Cilantro-Chili Seasoned Pork Sausage, the Fennel-Chicken Sausage Patties and the Apple and Sausage Patties. The Cilantro-Chili pork blend ( Jalapeno chili, cilantro, sea salt, ground pepper and 2 tbs of dark beer) was spicy on the nose but shockingly passive on the tongue. The Apple and Sausage patty (pork sausage, green apple, dried bread crumbs, heavy cream, egg yolk, salt, pepper) was rather forgettable as well. In unison, my mother and I both agreed that the Fennel-Chicken Sausage was the most flavor filled and best tasting.  The chicken soaked up the essence of the freshly crushed pepper and accompanying spices in a manor. This allowed the fennel and diced apples to sweetly balance the spice, giving each flick of the tongue a new sensation.

Taste buds set aflame with possibilities, I was determined to duplicate and expand on the recipe at home. 

Ingredients:

The procedure for making sausage is rather easy. You'll need your Kitchen Aid stand mixer and the KitchenAid FGA Food Grinder Attachment for Stand Mixers. Yes, you can also use a food processor.

The suggested ingredients are the following:
What the food grinder looks like, attached
  • 1 small fennel bulb 
  • Olive oil for sauteing the fennel and subsequent patties
  • Kosher Salt
  • 1 or 2 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and food processed into tiny bits
  • Chicken cut into large chunks to process through the chute. My preference is 3 breasts from Costco's Kirkland brand skinless and boneless breasts.
  • A few slices of bacon. I usually use about 3 or 4 slices
  • 2 tsp fennel seed
  • 1 tsp coriander seed
  • 2 tsp  peppercorns
  • 1/2 tsp nutmeg
  • 1/2 tsp cayenne pepper

Directions:

For the fennel, remove the outer shell of the bulb, mince and saute in a sauce pan. Once soft (about 3 - 4 minutes), remove from heat and press the moisture out with a paper towel. You want to make sure the fennel is soft and is as dry as possible.

Use a food processor to chop up the apples. Press with a paper towel to remove moisture and set aside.

Using a Vita Mix blender with the dry pitcher, a mortar and pestle set or something similar, crush and blend the herbs and salt together. This part is very subjective.  I actually don't use the suggested measurements for this. I go by smell and feeling, usually adding more than suggested.

With the food grinder attachment on, send the chicken pieces and and slabs of bacon through the chute. Have a bowl big enough to mix it all in ready, catching the minced meat. For the grinding process,  I use the smaller of the two grinding plates.

The delicious result
Now, for the fun part. Using your hands (gloved, preferred), fold in the spices, fennel and apple pieces and mix it all together. Yes, your hands.

When this technique was introduced to me during the class, I dutifully asked why the teacher preferred hand mixing above letting the stand mixer do it. Her answer was simple: you can more easily gauge the complete mixing of herbs and ingredients with your hands better than with the mixer. Plus, I believe it connects you to the food and the essence of creating.

After mixing, I usually let the chicken mixture sit for at least 20 minutes, if not overnight, in the refrigerator. This lets the flavors settle and mingle with the meat blend, creating a richer final taste.

When ready, scoop out and shape a patty 4 inches in diameter and about 1/2 inch thick. I use a hamburger presser similar to Progressive International HPM-1 The Perfect Burger Press. Fry for an average of 3 minutes on one side and 4 minutes on the other.

Drain on paper towels and serve with your choice of other breakfast delights.

Variations:
  • During my most recent go at this recipe, I wanted a spicier patty. So, I used crushed fresh garlic, dark chili powder, a few shakes of powdered cloves, dried red pepper flakes, more crushed peppercorn than suggested, and a fresh minced green onion. 

Class Notes:
  • Parts of the Egg: Egg whites are best for binding seafood patties. Egg yolks are best for beef.
  • You do not need casings to stuff your sausages. Unless you are smoking your sausages, casings are unnecessary and a hamper on your body's digestive track. If you want a link like shape, simply roll your sausages to your desired shape and fry.
  • What differentiates sausage from other meat blends are the spices that are used and the dense nature of the resulting meat. 
  • Go beyond the traditional pork sausages. Try lamb, venison, veal, chicken, turkey and seafood
  • Fennel is anise. They are one in the same.
  • The fat mixture in your meat should be about 20%. 
  • Cook your pork until there is no pink left. Trichinosis is killed at 137 degrees F. Use a thermometer if you're unsure to train yourself on proper cooking times. 


It's interesting to know that a casual click of an email led to a personal revolution regarding how I process and blend my meat.  I find that grinding and creating my own meat blends is extremely easy, fun and offers me the ability to craft delicious, high quality meat blends in almost no time at all. The possibilities are as endless as your tastes allow. In fact, I feel a cranberry and chicken blend calling my name soon.


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